On the road again in Thailand!

Before leaving Bangkok, we squeezed in some more dining. Isan Thai, or northern Thai cuisine has become our favorite. Roger even has become fond of drizzling chili powder or, better yet, chili paste oil on his "sticky rice". We also managed to squeeze in a ferry ride across the river but elected not to do a "rooster tail" boat tour because of the high waters from recent rains. There has been flooding in the northeast due to the rains and the river in Bangkok was high enough it had flooded some of the pier from which the ferries operated. We all had to walk bent over on hastily constructed platforms to reach the ferry. In addition to visiting a couple more wats, we stopped in a neighborhood known for its craftsmen and bought a handmade alms singing bowl. Alms bowls are utilized by the Buddhist monks in collecting donations for their temple's support. The singing bowls resonate like a bell when stroked with a pestle. Most are now made by machine but there are three families of Chinese ancestry in a small crafts neighborhood near Bangkok's famous "Golden Mount" that still shape and form these bowls by hand on an anvil. Our Ecuadorian friends will get to try their hand at making our purchased bowl "sing" when we return in January.

There's so much we did not get to see and do in Bangkok but it was time for us to head to the former capitol of the Lannae kingdom, Chiang Mai. We took the one hour flight via Thai Airlines northward to Thailand's mountain country. As we descended into the green and lush Ping River Valley and flew over the historic, moat-surrounded old city founded over 700 years ago, we held hands...so very grateful to be juntos en el camino de la vida.

Some general observations on Bangkok!

Bangkok, Thailand's capital is an enormous and very spread out city. Everywhere you go there is a curious mixture of old and new....a two block stretch of high rises will suddenly be broken up by a cluster of old buildings. You also are never very far away from either a wat complex or a mosque (Buddhists dominate in Thailand but there is a strong Muslim presence, as well.)

The other thing That is always close by is a good restaurant. Thai food is, of course, an obvious expectation, but you will be suprised at the number of pizza parlors and English or Irish pubs. There is some variety in the Thai restaurants as each section of the country has its own style of cuisine. Our son's girlfriend's family is from northeastern Thailand, near Laos and her aunt and uncle (our gracious hosts in Bangkok)run a successful Isan restaurant in Bangkok. The cuisine there is probably to Thai cooking what southern country comfort food is to family meals back home. There's always a little bit of everything on the the table. Family style service is standard practice and there's always an assortment of fresh herbs, spices and sauces on the side as well as in the prepared food. Trust me, you haven't experienced the full scope of Thai food until you've enjoyed a country Thai breakfast. It might consist of a small salty crusted fish that looks similar to bluegill accompanied by "sticky rice" dipped in chili paste and perhaps served with a side of herb and rice soup mixed with either squid or pork or both! It definitely isn't biscuits and gravy from Cracker Barrel! It is, however, suprisingly good for breakfast and gets you through the day.

You are also never far from someplace that gives Thai massages. From booths in open air markets to kiosks and shops in the mall to very elaborate spas you are sure to be able to unwind the cares of any day with a trained Thai masseuse. We did just that on our second day (is this a pattern developing?). This time we went for the cadillac spa treatment...refreshment served before and after, personal concierge for our group in addition to the individual therapists and a private room and two hours worth of therapy. Did I mention all this cost us less than $20 per person?

We're getting a bang out of Bangkok and we look forward to discovering what else this wonderful land has in store for us as we continue "juntos en el camino de la vida".

In Siam, I Am!

We made it....Suzanne and I are in Thailand for a one month visit. It only took 25 hours of traveling to get here, including rerouting the last of three planes in order to avoid a typhoon in the making near Twaiwan. After some much needed sleep, we headed out to enjoy our first day in Bangkok. In Thailand, there are four things you are guaranteed to do during your first day: 1. Eat some Thai food. 2. Sweat a lot. 3. Eat more Thai food. 4. Sweat a lot more. We did those four as well as a few more fun things. We visited two wats, (temples) including the only remaining Loha Prasat in the world (there have only been three, the first of which included the Lord Buddha among its occupants). We toured the Grand Palace complex including a visit to the wat which houses the Emerald Buddha. I got started at by a group of school kids on a tour of the palace grounds. Falang staring is a common pastime in rural Thailand but less common in Bangkok and Chiang Mai. (Falang is the Thai equivalent of a gringo).

We were fortunate to finish off our hectic first day with Thai massages. Thai massages involve kneading and moving your body parts in a manner that would make the average midwest chiropractor swoon. Afterwards, you enjoy a couple of hours of almost euphoric physical relaxation and well being. We got to make some new friends whose names we will be challenged to remember and sampled some new foods we'll probably never be able to pronounce. We also came to the conclusion that the Thai alphabet was secretly developed by a cadre of hyperactive kindergardeners during a bizarre fingerpainting class. Fortunately, there's a lot of bilingual signage here.

There are also wonderful things to experience, enjoy and explore in this beautiful and exoctic country. Once again, we feel blessed to be "juntos en el camino de la vida".

On the road of life to help a special Floridian!

When Roger and I returned from Cuenca, we headed to Florida. We had promised Roger's stepmom, Mary, we would help her downsize. Mary is 88 years old but still lives in her own home and she wanted to simplify. Our son's girlfriend, Thoom, graciously offered to help, so after resting a few days in Atlanta, we piled into the SUV and headed to Florida. We spent nearly three weeks going through everything, deciding what to keep, what to sell and what to donate. We also took time out to play...a little shopping, a few games of cards and a glass of wine or two. Sometimes it was really difficult for Mary to part with things she had kept for decades. But, overall, she was a real trooper! We got everything priced and will be doing garage sales and flea markets when we return in December. Mary has decided she wanted to host our final Christmas in the States before we return to Ecuador. As Mary says....now she can find her Christmas decorations!

While Mary, Thoom and I went through things in the house, Roger built a patio for Mary. It is something that she has always wanted. We ladies definitely had the cooler part of the job! But now Mary and her buddies can sip wine on her new back patio!

Now we are back in Atlanta before leaving on our next leg of our adventures. Our son Steve gave us a wonderful surprise this summer.....airline tickets to Thailand. Thoom is originally from Thailand so she will be staying with us for a month and Steve will join us for the last two weeks. So the next few blogs will be about our adventures from Thailand.

As always, Juntos en el Camino de La Vida!




These hard working gals, Mary, Thoom & Suzanne, were ready
 to celebrate the end of  nearly two weeks of downsizing.

The Yazells in Florida:  Stephen, Roger, Mary & Suzanne

Roger & Mary on the newly completed patio!

Back in Georgia, Suzanne and Thoom cool off while the
guys watched the opening of the football season at a friend's house.
Next stop on the road of life....Thoom's native Thailand!

A Few Of Our Favorite Things Part III

After two months in Ecuador we have come to love hats and have added the hats made in this vicinity to our list of favorite things.  They are almost a necessity if you plan on spending a fair amount of time outdoors. On a sunny day, sunglasses, suncreen (SP50 at least!) and a good Panama hat are your best friends and protectors against what has to be one of the highest UV indexes in the western hemisphere.  You definitely need to be conscious of protecting your skin against overexposure if you plan on spending any time in Cuenca.It's probably one of the reasons why the famous Panama hat originated here. 
That, of course, leads to the question, why is it called a Panama Hat?  Why not the Cuenca Hat or the Ecuador Hat? Chalk that up to several movie stars who made films in Panama and wore this type of hat not only in their films but afterwards as well.  In any case, the woven hat originated in the Azuay province of the southern Andes and the hats are still made there today.  As you drive into Sigsig, a factory sits on the edge of the village utilizing machinery that was probably installed during the peak of Humphrey's Bogart's popularity. In this village, you will see literally scores of locals weaving fibers into hats as they walk about town.  Just about everywhere in Ecuador, you will find hats for sale.  We recommend that you buy and use one in this bright sunny climate.  

The Yazells plan on becoming regular hat wearers as we continue juntos en el camino de la vida!

The World's Largest Panama Hat on display for tourists to photograph at the hat factory in Sigsig.

Hand woven hats awaiting their turn in the hat mold.

Steam mold for final forming of hats.

Roger's hat in this photo came with him from
the U.S. It is a collapsible canvas type that packs easily.
The photo was taken at the Pumapungo Archaelogical Park.

Suzanne tried on several hats at this shop in Quito!

This one is targeted for purchase when we return!

Suzanne purchased this hand in Cuenca at
Bernal Hats on Simon Bolivar.

Roger's first hat came from Sigsig.
The shirt is Ecuadorian from Cemuart in Cuenca.
 The photo was at the Turi Overlook.

Roger's second panama hat was purchased in Cuenca
at La Paja Toquilla on Juan Jaramillo and it rapidly
became his favorite.

If you plan on spending a sunny day walking around Cuenca, don't forget your hat!

A Few Of Our Favorite Things Part II

During our two month exploratory trip to Cuenca, we did just that....each day we explored what soon became apparent would be our new home city. And what a wonderful city Cuenca is for just heading out each each day and seeing what you can discover. The photos below reminded us of some our favorite discoveries....the flower market, street vendors, street performers as well as impromtu performances on and near Parque Calderon, great plazas for just sitting, relaxing and people watching. There are great shops to discover, greenbelts to stop and rest in and if you get tired of walking, you can take a bus to edge of the city for only a quarter! The double decker tourist bus is a must for new arrivals! Most everyone heads to the Mall del Rio but the greatest discoveries await you in the side streets of the centro and in Cuenca's many wonderful neighborhoods. We estimated we averaged about two miles a day walking in our explorations. By foot, by bus or even by affordable taxi, Cuenca is a great place to be "juntos en el camino de la vida"!

A Few Of Our Favorite Things - Part I

Presently the Yazells are in Florida, buidling a new patio for Roger's step-mom and helping her down size her house. No internet there yet so this post includes some photos we downloaded at our son's house in Atlanta. One of our favorite things during our stay was all the churhes. we understand they are over fifty in Cuenca alone. We haven't seen them all yet (some will have to wait until our return). We've included many of favorites in the photo montage below and have included some from Chordeleg, Sigsig, Gualeceo and Quito. we look forward to enjoying the beauty of many more when we return.

We're now on schedule to visit Thailand with the kids in a couple of weeks so we'll probably be sharing some some photos of the beautiful temples there in the future.

Until then, we remain juntos en el camino de la vida!

A Note About Upcoming posts:

Regular readers will have noticed our absence of photos. Yes, we did take a camera to Ecuador with us (actually 2) and we even shot enough photos that we overloaded a memory card for the first time ever (Roger bought the 4 meg card). What we didn't do was to bring a computer other than our portable ipad which has NO usb port for camera download. Oooops, our bad!

As you know, we're back in the USA and Roger has access to another computer and the download is under way. Needless to say, upcoming posts here will generally feature little news but a lot of photos from our 2 month stay. We hope you'll enjoy them.

The next few postings on Roger's wine blog(the first of which is now up)will also feature some photos from Ecuador (www.rogersgrapevine.blogspot.com). These will focus on places where we've enjoyed wine.

We are currently in Atlanta at our son's house and will be traveling to Florida to spend time helping Roger's step mom. We also have an upcoming trip to Thailand to squeeze in before we head to Arizona to pack up for our Ecuadorian return. So following the pictoral essays, keep checking in for more stories (and hopefully, lots more pictures!) as we continue juntos en el camino de la vida.

Sometimes it's hard to say Goodbye....Hasta Luego is Better!

We are returning to the USA after completing our two month trial in Ecuador. We have every intention of returning in order to make Cuenca our home. The following is an email sent to as many of our new friends as we could find email addresses for. We wanted to recopy here on the blog in hopes of reaching those whom we didn't have email adresses for (or who addresses were tucked away in luggage before we realized we hadn't put them in our ipad yet!)

It reads as follows:

Please forgive us for taking the easy way out and doing a group letter when we really should take the time to personally thank each and every one of you for helping to make our eight week stay in Ecuador a very special and cherished time.  Each of you in your own way contributed to making us welcome and helping us to adjust to a new and wonderous locale.  As we depart, it is with an assortment of emotions.  We are excited at the prospect of seeing family and friends and sharing more fully with them the adventure we've enjoyed for the past eight weeks.  We also have learned that we will have the opportunity to visit Thailand during our return stay in the US.  It will be an exciting time filled with many things to see, enjoy and do.

But there is a small sense of sadness as well.  We realized that when one of our new found friends in Cuenca asked how we felt about returning home. Without hesitation I responded we felt like we're leaving a home here to go visit where we used to live.  We hadn't really discussed it or consciously thought about it but in just a few short weeks, Cuenca had, indeed, become home.  We were comfortable in this wonderful city, delighted to be in our surroundings and among people who truly felt like neighbors.

Each of you who came into contact with us during these eight weeks played a role in creating that feeling.  We are humbly grateful that you did.  Thank you, thank you, thank you!  Please continue to preserve, protect and nurture the wonderful sense of fellowship and community that exists here.  Know that we are anxious to return and share in that community with you and look forward to the day when we add our contribution as well.

To our friends in Ecuador receiving this as an email....please pass along to mutual acquaintances. We discovered we missed getting many email addresses loaded into our computer and we hope our expression of gratitude will reach all we came in contact with during our wonderous time here.

Until we return, know we will think of you and Cuenca often as we continue juntos en el camino de la vida!

Roger & Suzanne Yazell

Good fun, good wine and great pizza!

As with so many good things and places we've discovered in Cuenca, the source of the best pizza we've enjoyed here was tucked away in an unpretentious nook, with a small sign that was barely noticable. It was the kind of place you could easily walk past without seeing.

Truth be told, we hadn't gone there for the pizza! Fellow boomer and refugee from the 60's and 70's Bill Keyes had become one of our new found friends here in Cuenca. Bill is a long time bass guitarist and he performs with some regularity at the pizza parlor in question. We had gone there specifically to hear our friend "jam". The place in question was Mitti's Pizza (Hermano Miguel 4-37 y Calle Larga). It was easily found because Bill had told us it was directly across the street from Carolina Bookstore.

We arrived at our normal dinner time but slightly ahead of Bill's expected play time so we proceeded to examine the menu curiously labeled Marco's Pizza. It turns out the current proprietor is a native Argentinean from Buenos Aires named Marcos. He was a delightful host and his pizza turned out to be excellent, expecially when accompanied by a glass of Argentinean Cabernet.

A short note about pizza here in Cuenca: While there are many fine Italian establishments in Cuenca, there is a challenge in finding really, really good traditional pizza. Pizza buffs know the three keys to this kind of pizza is crust, cheese and sauce. Crust is not a problem but cheese, as a whole, in Ecuador is OK but not very classy unless you go for the more expensive imported stuff. As to sauce... well this is a country where most people prefer dipping their french fries in mayonesa rather than salsa de tomate(ketchup). As you might image, most pizza is served with a notable absence of tomato sauce. At Mitti's we were specifically asked about the inclusion of tomato sauce (we ordered the Hongos grande with the works on the sauce). Our verdict: yum, yum, yum! No pacquete a via for the Yazell's with this baby despite its grande size!

As to the music, owner Marcos joined in on the jam with our friend Bill. The music later included an accomplished guitarist/ singer from Australia whose friends were enjoying wine and pizza of their own at the front table. At the height of the jam, we were joined at our table by an Ecuadorian friend of ours who had stopped in for a glass of wine with a Canadian client in process of becoming an Expadorian.

So there we were, clientele from Ecuador, Australia, Canada and the U.S. listening to an American and an Argentinean rocking out to the Mexican "La Bamba". That was followed up by the entire room joining in vocally on a version of the Beetles "Get Back". All this took place in the historico centro of Cuenca Ecuador.

Some might call our evening out a very unique experience. For us it was a part of yet another wonderful and blessed day, juntos en el camino de la vida!